My love affair with Spain continues. This is my 15th trip and I’ve now been to 14 of Spain’s 15 mainland provinces. This short visit to Northern Spain came mostly from a desire to see three of the four buildings by one of my architectural heroes, Antonio Gaudi, that aren’t in or near Barcelona. After researching it, a few more interesting ideas came up and, with a lot of Iberia miles burning a hole in my pocket, a 5–day trip beckoned.
I flew to Santander and picked up a brand new Toyota Yaris (I didn’t demand a safer car, Sian) that within an hour was less than new, having disagreed with the narrow cobbled streets of my first destination, Santillana del Mar, whilst trying to find the hotel. I thanked my lucky stars that I’d taken the unusual step of buying out the E675 excess for E50 thinking it was a bit, well, excessive. Perhaps the Yaris was grumpy that Santillana isn’t del Mar at all – it’s nowhere near the sea; funny bunch these Cantabrians.
A lovely place it is though – farms actually on the edge of the town where the animals return at the end of a grasing day, the aforementioned cobbled streets, lovely 15th to 17th century stone houses with balconies and original (huge) family crests in stone. I stayed on the main square in an 18th century noble’s house, which is now a Parador (government run hotels mostly in old buildings full of character – and staffed by civil servants with the customer service stills you expect of civil servants) and wandered around the town early evening and early morning before taking the long way to Leon, my second destination.
This proved to be a spectacular drive, starting along the Cantabrian coast via the lovely seaside towns of Comillas and San Vicente de la Barquera. I then climbed through the deep river gorge of Desfiladero de la Hermida to the picturesque market town of Potes, cut by a deep river with houses hanging onto the hillsides and surrounded by snow-capped mountains, where the market was indeed in action. From here it was an ear-popping climb through the snow line to the San Gloria pass at 5280 ft. By now I was beginning to think I might have made a mistake – there were no other cars on the road, the snow on both sides was occasionally encroaching onto the road, the temperature dropped to 0°C and snow started falling – but I hung on in there (didn’t really have much option by now) and was soon descending to better and safer driving conditions. The next phase was along reservoirs with spectacular views of the permanently snow-capped Picos de Europa, a mountain range of three mastiffs of jagged peaks rising from the Atlantic Ocean, separated by two river gorges of which today’s was one. The lowlands prior to Leon were a bit tame after all of this, but I was glad the drive was coming to an end. That’s how to turn a 150-mile journey into a 6.5-hour adventure.
Finding the Parador in Leon proved very difficult; I drove around the city a few times before I came across an enormous monastery with a stunning Renaissance façade and noticed the ‘Parador’ sign; it took a while for my jaw to close. I have stayed in some great hotels, but this one immediately entered the top ten. It was originally built 900 years ago as a hostel for the pilgrims on the road to St James, though the present building dates from the 16th century with additions up to the 18th century. It has a two-story baronial staircase that redefines ‘baronial’, sublime cloisters and an en suite 500-year old church with amazing carved choir stalls – spectacular! The (affordable) rooms are in an annex that doesn’t live up to the public areas, but it’s a gem nonetheless and I got my first ‘old man’ perk (well, not counting the free coffee at Clapham Picture House, but that was both a mistake and an insult); a 30% reduction beautifully categorized as the ‘golden years’ discount.
My first impressions of Leon, based on the drive in, were disappointing but in the morning when I headed into the old town on foot, these were quickly turned around. The first Gaudi building beckoned, an early work showing characteristics that were to be developed later, now used as the offices of a bank. It’s a stone gothic rectangular structure with turrets, wrought iron, much stained glass and a stylized statue of St. George slaying the dragon over the door. I sneaked inside to see the stained glass as it should be seen, but was thrown out by the security guard who was clearly used to such transgressions, trying to placate me with a leaflet in English (shame on you Caja Espana; may your bonuses shrivel and disappear forever!).
On to the enormous Cathedral, whose main claim to fame are 125 spectacular stained glass windows on a Chartres scale (you couldn’t take them all in, so I had to buy the ‘catalogue’) and the Basilica of San Isidro which houses the tombs of more than 20 kings and queens (Leon was once the most powerful kingdom in the Iberian peninsular) in a room whose vaulted ceiling is covered in frescos, a wonderful treasury with a small number of beautifully restored and well displayed items and a library where the ancient books and manuscripts hadn’t got the same attention and looked to be in a state of terminal decline. Back at the Parador, I visited the en suite museum in the church, one room of which was a riot of stunning 16th century sculpture and plasterwork.
I took the fast toll road to Astorga for the second Gaudi building and only passed / was passed by three cars in the 30 mile journey; I realised why when I had to pay £4 for said 30 miles! However it was worth it, because Gaudi’s Bishops Palace was wonderful; a four-story fairytale fantasy turreted stone structure with vaulted ceilings on each floor, stained glass-a-go-go, ceramic decoration and lots of nooks and crannies. Many of the shapes, motifs and colours that were later to become trademarks were being tried out here (including one which he either stole from Charles Rennie Mackintosh or CRM stole from him). Unlike the bankers, the Bishops allowed you in (for a small fee) but wouldn’t allow photos (may you be hounded by snapping paparazzi!). Whilst in Astorga I took in the Cathedral, but it was a bit tame after Leon’s.
The plan was to return to Santillana through the mountains by a different route, but when I awoke to drizzle and heavy clouds, I was in two minds. I decided to continue with the plan; another good decision! The (mostly) new route to Riano was more interesting than the one from Riano, though once I left the Oviedo road I hardly saw a car or person – most of the towns, mid-morning, seemed like ghost towns. Why? With no wind at all, the reflections of the mountains in the reservoirs around Riano were perfect and quite disorientating. The mountain crossing was much gentler this way, with the pass 1000 feet less at 4250 feet, the temperature didn’t drop below 5°C and it wasn’t snowing! The clouds were high, so the views were spectacular; a full 180° from the Ponton pass. The Desfiladero de los Beyos river gorge (aren’t these names lovely?), though shorter than the other route, was narrower and windier and I saw much more of it (when I wasn’t concentrating on the narrow road and double bends). Before we reached the end we had to contend with a crushed lorry blocking the road; the local police clearly thought I was a wimp slowly navigating the space they had created (which bigger vehicles had sailed through) but they hadn’t scraped their Yaris 3 days ago! The mountain journey ended at Cangas de Onis where there was a beautiful Roman bridge with three arches. Another lovely journey.
Back in Santillana, the last full day was spent catching up with the local sights. I started at the pre-historic caves of Altamira just a couple of kms up the road, where the rock paintings are 12,000 to 15,000 years old. Like Lascaux in the Dordogne, the cave itself is now closed to the public to preserve it and a replica has been created. This, and the excellent museum with everything in English as well as Spanish, exceeded expectations; I was enthralled. Back in Santillana, the collegiate church of Santa Juliana had some wonderful cloisters with intricately carved capitals.
The final Gaudi building beckoned – a working restaurant in Comillas and the plan was to have lunch there. I’d tried emailing in advance but didn’t receive a response. The reason became obvious when I arrived to a sign saying it had ‘permanently closed for holidays on 28th December’?! I managed to get a good exterior view but that was it (may your dishes burn to a cinder, El Capricho – if you ever reopen!). Apparently, though he designed it, he didn’t come north to supervise its building, yet it’s the most obviously Gaudi, very like Casa Vincens in Barcelona. My consolation prize was a tour of Palacio Sobrellano by another Catalan modernist. It was lovely and I’m puzzled why the guidebooks ignore it. I was the only visitor, the guide spoke slowly and even I was impressed at how much I understood (her illustrated tale of how they protected the Queens’ modesty when she bathed in the sea was priceless). The Gaudi connection became clear here. The palace was the home of the Marquis of Comillas who married the daughter of Gaudi’s Catalan patron, Guell. I loved Comillas and ended with a some ‘raciones’ in the bar of a very loud lady from the south whose Bellota ham, croquettas and welcome was lovely but would have benefitted from added ear plugs!
This is a long blog for a short trip, which says something about how much I enjoyed it. Here are rather a lot of photos for a short trip too…..
You are invited to view Gareth’s photo album: Northern Spain, March 2010
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